20 Years Ago Today -- May 5, 1996 -- Day 27

Sun. 96-05-05 - Day 27 - 8° 08' S  137° 34' W  Log: 2,569nm

Only 121 more miles to Hiva Oa. We're bombing along in mostly rambunctious conditions, with wind slightly ahead of the beam and making ~190° magnetic in 15 - 20 knots of wind. We dropped the yankee at the end of my first watch last night and put up the staysail, with one reef still in the main. We had a few gusts to 25 knots before the sail change, but things quieted down some afterwards, naturally.

The weather was more sunny today [crash, as we are pushed over by a steep wave] with some tradewind clouds, although there were still squalls around. I felt better -- better mood and more rested, although still easily pissed off. I need a shower, but am reluctant to wash without a fresh water rinse.

Woke this morning to find John running the small manual watermaker in the cockpit, having taken it out of the abandon-ship bag. The things some people will do for a cup of coffee! Earlier, he had tried making coffee with 7-Up (ugh) and sea water ("-10 on a scale of 1 - 10").

We should have landfall by sunrise tomorrow morning. We're both quite ready for a quiet(er) anchorage and a walk ashore. I guess we'll try to find a restaurant for dinner in Atuona.

John's French is coming along -- he's really done pretty well considering the short time he's been at it -- but he's not yet up to being able to converse. I'm looking forward to speaking French in the islands -- hope my vocabulary is up to it.

CDs:

• Miles Davis -- 7 Steps to Heaven
• Getz / Gilberto

This afternoon I spotted a sailboat crossing our bow about a mile ahead. Looked like they were headed for Nuku Hiva, perhaps from Panama. John tried to raise them on the radio -- "Sailboat, sailboat, sailboat, this is the sailing vessel Vahevala." No response.

Had a tuna or something on the fish hook this afternoon in a squall but it got off shortly after I started hauling in on the line. Too bad.